Expensive lens - still soft images!?
posted on 29th of july, 2010
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Recently I have started to notice that we get an increasing number of product and people shots that are NOT out of focus, but are kind of soft anyway. As the review tool shows conveniently the EXIF of the photograph, a correlation started to emerge. Namely, the correlation between the aperture and softness of the image.
Now, most of you would think that - yes, but of course, the wider the aperture the softer the image and the shallower given depth of field. Right you are, but interestingly the same is true if you approach the other end of the possible aperture values.
How is this possible? Isn't it so, that the bigger "f-number" I have, the deeper DOF I achieve?
Correct. But in addition to depth of field, other characteristics come into play. So far so, that I say the DOF does not play a role in the sharpness of an image other than it just defines the spatial amount of image that is in focus. Extrapolating from this, the image can theoretically be "in focus", but it can still be unsharp if the quality of the lens itself is low - starting to get the picture?
One of these aperture characteristics has a nickname "sweet spot". This sweet spot moves around a bit from lens to lens, and without going too technical, depends upon the arrangement and groups of small lenses inside the housing.
Well, how to determine the sweet spot of your particular lens then?
There are several ways to do that, depending on your commitment and technical understanding. There are trial-and-error methods on one hand, and there are MTF charts, Nyquist frequencies and what not, at the other.
The rule of thumb, not the absolute truth, is that the lens is at its sharpest, from EDGE-TO-EDGE at apertures of some 3-4 f-stops smaller than the widest maximum. (Now, take note of this edge-to-edge, since the majority of "Poor optical performance" reject reason is for blurry edges!)
If you would like to understand what on earth the aperture is, I found an excellent blog already posted here on Dreamstime - thanks, Brad Calkin for taking the time to explain all this in layman's terms!
You can of course Google the "sweet spot of a lens", but in my quest I found one that gets you started:
Finding the sweet spot »
Since I am a Nikon-guy, I will post a few shortcuts to the MTF charts of most popular Nikon lenses:
Nikkor 50mm/f1.4
Nikkor 18-55mm/f3.5-5.6 VR (kit lens)
Nikkor 80-200mm/f2.8 VR
What you conclude from these charts (move the zoom and aperture sliders around at the bottom), is that LENS SHARPNESS GENERALLY DROPS UP TO 50% WHEN STOPPED DOWN TO THE SMALLEST APERTURE!.
Next time you shoot an object in your light-tent, take a few samples to see if you really need that f32 or is just as well in DOF with f8-f11? It certainly will be SHARPER at the latter settings. If you MUST use those extreme aperture (shooting macro or the object is long on the axis of shooting) you have to sharpen the image afterwards in photoshop.
What we, reviewers, hate most is a professional looking and nicely composed image that is visibly soft at 100% :)
You can easily pick other makes and models from the huge database of the Dpreview specialists. To my knowledge it is the most respected independent photography equipment review site. Of course, Canon, Sigma, Tokina, etc are all covered so chances are that you'll find the lens review you are looking for.
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Tags: aperture lens softness spot sweet
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Comments (11)
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thank you for sharing :) love it
- posted by
Mariusgradinaru
on August 05, 2010 |
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Incredible, would never have known otherwise. time to go spend a few hours playing with my lenses.
- posted by
Manix43
on July 30, 2010 |
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Very interesting, I had noticed his problem with some of my images and a beautiful new lens I've got. I was wondering if this could be the reason or if it had to do with my tripod... I'll investigate a bit further
- posted by
Rosedarc
on July 29, 2010 |
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thanks for sharing.I love learning all I can.
- posted by
Dmccale
on July 29, 2010 |
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Very interesting! Since I am a Nikon user, I am definitely going to check out those links. I also run into the balancing act of lens sharpness vs depth of field, and I have a couple lenses I have decided not to use for stock work because I have had too many difficulties:)
- posted by
Adeliepenguin
on July 29, 2010 |
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Indeed, diffraction starts to limit your sharpness and it may be a trade off between depth of field and sharpness. Assuming that a small aperture is best may be in part due to the Sunny-16 'rule'. I wrote a blog about that assumption, too: Need a new rule? :)
- posted by
Bradcalkins
on July 29, 2010 |
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I agree!
- posted by
smartview27
on July 29, 2010 |
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Couldn't agree more!
As a note to all macro-lovers or others who are trying to achieve the maximum possible depth of field - read a bit about Focus Stacking techniques (if you're not familiar with them already) and put them to use. The results are superb and well worth the effort.
- posted by
Petarneychev
on July 29, 2010 |
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Thanks for sharing this info.... Sometimes we believe in the theory but it is more important to get to know your equipment too.
- posted by
Egomezta
on July 29, 2010 |
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The smaller the opening of the aperture (or the higher the aperture-number) the bigger the optical refraction on the aperture blades. And that is what makes an image soft, That`s the simple truth. Pure physics.
- posted by
Cristalloid
on July 29, 2010 |
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really an intresting blog,thanks for sharing your experience and the links!
- posted by
Yuritz
on July 29, 2010 |
Comments (11) |
This article has been read 1707 times. 19 readers have found this article useful.
Photo credits: Ryan Jorgensen, , Yang Yu, Madartists, Elopaint, Elopaint, Kev303. |
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Kutt Niinepuu
(Demonike)
Peetri Küla, EE
>I am a graphic designer, webmaster, photographer. Live in Estonia. 3 kids. Mac-person. Nikon-person.
Initially gave my images for free back in 2003. Then discovered that some people would actually be willing to pay for my random photo experiments. Found Dreamstime, had lots to say in the forums and Serban invited me into their family :)
• I am totally self taught. Through trial and error. Mostly latter :)
• What makes an ideal microstock photo? I think it is broad usability. Solely.
• I have studio experience, but am not so active lately. Mostly shoot events, family, objects. I like to use my Nikon Speedlights (900 and 800) off the camera wirelessly. Could use even more units for interesting light effects and colors (different gel filters).
• My photographic mantra: get an idea, try it out, improve. I would call this Japanese-style, I guess :P
• My favorite photography subjects - non-moving objects, architecture.
• The most important characteristic / skill needed to become a successful microstock photographer is persistence and objectivity in my opinion. Suppress your ego.
• One piece of advice for newcomers - the beginning is always slow and painful. Do not give up and do not take anything personally. Strangers looking at your images (reviewers) do not know you at all and are utterly objective - they express their first impression of your image while only comparing it to the other ones they have seen. This is usually how the browsing buyer will see your image.
• The microstock industry has changed a lot since I began as a microstock photographer. A lot of stuff seems to be available for free nowadays, but always check the source and usage terms. Many people think that the biggest free image bank in the world is Google - it could turn out to be the most expensive one, so be careful. Everyone seems to be a photographer - some are quite talented first off, others have to work their way up. Photography in general has become immensely more accessible. Veterans struggle to keep their edge.
• Being a microstock photographer has taught me not to overlook details in an image. They are often the deal makers or breakers. The more you work on details in your images (given the whole concept is salable) the more rewarding it will be in the long run.
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