I have discussed the space definition and camera position relative to space. In this one I have wrote my ideas regarding the lenses and how they affect the spce, wide angle and telephoto lens.

When we use a wide-angle lens, we are expanding all visually space. For creating visual depth, the expansion supports the concept of layering by extending all the spaces. The visual expansion of space is based directly on distance relationships, between elements in the frame and the camera's position. If the elements are equal-distant from the camera's position, no visual expansion between elements will result. The wide field of view, allows all elements to appear further, but no visual expansion occurs. When the distance relationship changes, and one element exists closer to the camera's position than ...

Camera position plays a vital role in creating and arranging positive and negative spaces. The relationship between where the camera is positioned and where the elements in frame physically exist is one of the most important things we should pay attention too. Their are three components of the cameras position in relation to the elements in the frame, the vertical position, horizontal position and the distance to the subject (moving closer or further away).

When we raise or lower our camera's position, we are physically changing the angle we view the elements and their relationship with each other. We are not changing their apparent size, however. In most situations if we move our camera position higher we create or maximize ...

Using Space Management and Layering, we manipulate the two dimensional photographic space and introduce depth by changing the relationship of distance between elements and their size.

Positive and negative space occupies all areas within any scene in the camera's viewfinder. Positive space is simply, the space the elements or subjects occupy within the frame; Main subjects is the positive space that visually is the most important element in the frame and Secondary Subjects are all other positive spaces.

Negative space is all the other areas around the positive spaces. The positive and negative spaces are both considered layers. The way that we create and arrange these spaces is the concept of layering. The alternation of space layers is creating depth in the image. Not all photographs ...

Correct Exposure is combination of Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO and a creatively correct exposure is combination of all of above and the photographer’s creative mind. I believe there is nothing can be termed as bad or good light for my exposure, it should be appropriate light as well as exposure. Lighting depends on Seasons, Weather, and Time of the day. The essential qualities of light are direction, color and intensity. I have often realized that waiting for the perfect moment and animal behavior is often the difference between a good image and a great one (Alas, I don’t have any yet). I like the term tonal contrast, which is nothing but the range of highlights and shadows. An Image with high level of tonal contrast, challenges me, if expose for highlight I loose the details in shadows;...

Once one of my Photography Instructor asked me a simple question, “Which one is better, a watch that is stopped or a watch that always runs 10 minutes late?” The answer is, always prefer the stopped watch as its gives correct time at least twice a day. In case focusing for a moving element I always remember the same. There are different types of birds in terms of their flying speed and size. The Egrets are medium sized (Though they have thin neck that makes it difficult to focus their eyes) and their quite slow. The falcons are extremely fast and some birds fly very infrequently. Some birds fly and stop in the air for sometime to see everything around and then proceed. Some birds do walks/runs very fast with the wings spread, like jungle foul.

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Lot of time we face problems while taking picture because of cluttered background and bokeh lights. I have devised for myself few rules that help me to get rid of these things,

1. Depending upon the light, I narrow the aperture that is increase the f number and also sometime use flash along with small aperture. Small Aperture not only increases the DOF, it also reduces the light so if the background consists of clutter bush etc, then all these gets hidden and the fill in flash makes the subject evenly illuminated.

2. The other option would be what I call as Reverse Rule of third. In Rule of third we place the subject in any of the intersection point, and allow the audience to traverse through the whole Image and in that case we need give due importance to the background....

In lots of article and books I have seen that exposure compensation depends on the color, and of course 18% grey and blah blah. Now, my realization is it also depends on the metering mode. Let say your metering mode is Spot, so you just need to worry about 2-3 % of the image, if its evaluative or matrix then you need worry about the complete image, 100%. So in case Sport your headache is less as you are worrying about only a tiny portion of your picture and in case evaluative you should worry about the whole image's color composition. Let’s go by the golden rule, if it’s white then +2 exposure compensation and if it's black then -2 exposure compensation. I love wildlife photography so I always love to refer animals and their complexion for the exposure compensation discussion....