Call this,if you like, a "Photographer's Notebook" -these are lessons learned in almost 50 years of photography-aimed mainly at the beginner in the game of stock; But hopefully more advanced practitioners may pick up a trick, or wrinkle here and there. Regards, Ken
I believe it is best to take baby steps- So before you do anything, take these Three steps:
A) Set your Focus icons - detach lens, (so you are adjusting focus on focus point, not image) - adjust dioptre (next to viewfinder) so focus points are sharply in focus. (easier against a white, or light background) Re-attach lens.
B) Calibrate your camera for exposure.
The starting point is to find out how your camera's meter reads exposure. I know mine overexposes by 0.3 to 0.7 EV, depending on lighting, so...
Hi Ken you have supplied so much good information I am slowly digesting it and am printing out the info. I have a question o learned one. I have Adobe 4.0 photoshop and do not have the pen tool for isolation .Checking out the pen tool on some one else computer i think it works similar to the magic lasso in my program. Are you familiar with adobe 4. I would like to beable to do the best isolation's i can. Thank you Peter
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My take on Wedding Photography - Kenneth William Caleno
Two camera bodies that share the lenses
Two flashes (strobes) plus cables, etc.,
18mm-55mm zoom-for groups
50mm standard lens F1.8 or even better F1.4-for low-light situations
Not essential, but handy for candids and from back of church images- 70mm-300mm zoom lens
large capacity digital storage cards
At least triple batteries as you think you will need
Two white reflectors
Diffusion (soft-focus) filter
85c warming filter for grey days
Tripod for formal photos
Lens hoods to control flare
Planning the wedding shoot
You must have a timetable to work from, or you will fail miserably.
You must always remember:
The Bride is never on time
Cars are sometimes late arriving
Hi, an American colleague and I are preparing an all in one guide,covering raw processing,studio work,using studio strobes,all with images to explain, It'll be some time in the making, but I am sure we'll get there,Ken
Here's the secret to getting a perfectly exposed outdoor shot every time - (as long as your subject area is within the 5-stop dynamic range of the camera's metering system)
1. Know how your camera handles exposure-( I know that mine overexposes between 1/3 and 2/3 of a stop-depending on lighting conditions)
First, calibrate your camera's meter:
a) Set camera mode to “P”/P-shift“, or “A/AV” Use Matrix/evaluative metering-(Scene should contain all tones within dynamic range) b) Hold +/- button, (On Nikon’s, Near shutter button: Canon‘s is to the right of LCD screen) and turn command dial to + 1.0 - take a shot
Next ……………………………….................turn command dial to + 0.7 - take a shot Next………………………………......
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