What's good about photography is that it keeps you constantly searching for beauty ---- a scene, a person, a thing ---- and that is good for your mind, body, and spirit. It keeps you positive. And you don't have to go far to find beauty. It's all around you. It's beneath you, it's above you, it's beside you, it's behind you. And it's right in front of you. You just need to open the eyes of your mind and feel with your heart.
So go get a camera and shoot the world. You don't need to spend a fortune on a DSLR. Grab what you can afford and grow from there. Near or far, I'm sure there's something out there that will capture your attention. Learn to look at the world from different perspectives. You'll be surprised at what you'll find. And, don't forget to share your photos.
Very well said. I read that the human mind sees 15000 images a day, that being said, to capture just one of those images on a photograph and to study its simplicity and beautiful significance .... is life.
I see it the same way as you, I shoot mainly wildlife and I have learned that you get a lot of knowledge about animal behavior because you are actually always observing them, ready to know if they are going to "do something interesting" like flying away, quarrel, fight, mate etc which is what you are actually waiting for, you learn about their behavior because you need to anticipate to it. O f course as you say all that is a lot of fun, the boring part comes as always when you sit in front of your computer!
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Macrophotography presents its own set of challenges quite distinct from your usual photography. First of all, you have to spring for the lens, and that's nothing to sneeze at. Then, you have to get dirty --- I mean, you have to kneel, sit, even lie on the ground to take the shots you want. You have to assume awkward, sinew stretching positions so you can take a picture of that itsy bitsy ladybug underneath that teeny weeny leaf. Plus you have to suffer ants feasting on your feet and endure static from your wife regarding laundry issues :)
For the technical challenges, focusing on such small subjects is difficult, to say the least. Light and camera shake is an issue, depth of field is critical, and if you're chasing moving subjects like butterflies, dragonflies, and bugs that...
Yes, teleconverter is an option, but you need to think about image quality in that case. They say that converters can do some image degradation. Reverse ring method is ok, but then you need to shoot in full manual mode, cause there is no connection between lens and camera, so that is another disadvantage when you need to shoot something very quick.
Maybe the best method are extension tubes because one simple reason. Extension tubes don't have any additional glass inside, so there is no image degradation or loss in quality. Kenko Extension tubes with connectors are even better because your lens have contact with camera.
Hi Mario. I've been reading up about macro, and I was thinking that if I really wanted to get shots like Vencavolrab's, I'd have to get, probably, a teleconverter which you put between the camera and the lens. It basically magnifies everything that goes through the lens. It's quite pricey, though, and it seems to work with prime L lenses only (for Canon). So, I think I'll settle for a +4 close-up lens (filter) for now :) The reverse ring is an adapter so you can attach your lens to your camera in reverse to magnify the image; quite cheap but not my cup of tea when doing macro. I wrote about these in more detail in my other blog "Macrophotography: My Two Cents Worth." You may want to check it out. Thanks, Mario.
My latest upload to dreamstime: A shot of my own guitar. That brings the total number of images in my "portfolio" to 7 :) That's 993 images away from the goal of 1000 :) A few more years and a lot more gray hair and we'll get there :)
Have you been waiting forever for that first ever download? Or perhaps you've been stuck with download number 10 or even 100. Maybe some of your photos just haven't been downloaded at all. Do you feel like throwing in the towel?
Sometimes, perhaps often, things just don't move as quickly as we want them to. And this can really get us down; No, not downloaded, d-o-w-n :) But that is just the way life is. Things take time, and good things take lots of time. Good things like getting to 1,000 images online or having hundreds or even thousands of downloads under your belt.
So, hang in there. Don't forget that you got to be a contributor here at dreamstime because you have something unique to offer. You have your own take on the world around you. Maybe you need to improve...
Not one person starts anywhere else but at the bottom no matter what they do and not one made a penny until they put in hard work and effort. The only way in this World is the hard way. I guarantee you all those who are successful started out at the bottom also so you look at it with an attitude " If they could do it, then So Can I."
Money is no object so ... LOL; how I wish that were true :) But it DOES matter, and matter a whole lot, so I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the 24-105 is $300 less expensive (in the Philippines) than the 24-70 and is even the more appropriate lens for me. I didn't know there was a 24-105mm before the 24-70's exorbitant price drove me to painstaking research :)
Here's a rundown of the points I considered:
1. Zoom Range: The 24-105 is 35mm more far-reaching than the 24-70; a nice advantage to have when taking landscape and travel photos. And, that's not to say that the 24-105 is heavier and longer than the 24-70; it's actually 280g lighter and 16.5mm shorter even when extended. The 24-105's lens hood is also much smaller than the 24-70's.
My thoughts on this- What matters first is what you are intending to shoot and how? Tripod, off camera lighting, outodoors, indoors, studio, people, places or things? These are the questions I asked myself first, and then decide what to snap on the camera. I believe that the equipment has to fit the need. But I would always recommend the heavy glass that Canon is famous for! The color that pops of the print is worth the extra$$ Oh sure maybe a photoshop guru will tell you different or you may have gotten a few stunners from regular glass that make you scratch your head on why spend the big bucks. But, if you want 99% keeper rates and know what you are shooting for before the shutter goes off, then L glass has to be in the camera bag!
I've never had an image rejected because of depth of field. With a narrow depth of field it becomes critical that the focus be in the proper spot ( e.g. the eyes rather than the end of the nose) and an image can be rejected for that but give DT some credit, selective focus via depth of field is perfectly fine in stock. Depending on the distance to the subject, dof is compressed with distant objects bringing more into focus anyway so the extra stops you get from 2.8 is valuable. Ruben's argument is the only one I agree with as far as selecting one over the other. That and price.
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Macrophotography is a lot of fun and one of the most rewarding kind of photography you can do. But it can also be an expensive proposition --- the camera, the lens, and the medical bills if you happen to annoy a few insects in the process :) While you can definitely start with a compact camera as I did, serious macrophotography requires some serious gadgets. So before you make any purchase, be sure you'll stick it out and make sure you know what you want to get out of macrophotography.
Here are a few tips from someone who got there just a little ahead of you:
01. CHOOSE THE RIGHT LENS. First, you need to know what kind of macrophotography you want to do, at least, for the greater part of it. This will help you determine what kind of lens suits your goal. A 50mm macro lens...
I agree with your experience regarding the 100mm - although I'm working with the 90mm from Tamron which also does a pretty good job. I said it before, but many times I just choose to go with my camera and the 90mm lens and use it from 1:1 flower macros, portraits of birds in the park or even landscapes - many people underestimate the possibilities regarding these prime lenses. But I also need to think about the lightning - I think I will try to buy a used ring flash because that's the main limitation I have at the moment and IS may be good in some cases but usually the object moves because of wind or for other reasons and then IS won't help much either.
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