I believe it is best to take baby steps- So before you do anything, take these Three steps:
A) Set your Focus icons - detach lens, (so you are adjusting focus on focus point, not image) - adjust dioptre (next to viewfinder) so focus points are sharply in focus. (easier against a white, or light background) Re-attach lens.
B) Calibrate your camera for exposure.
The starting point is to find out how your camera's meter reads exposure. I know mine overexposes by 0.3 to 0.7 EV, depending on lighting, so...
Hi Ken you have supplied so much good information I am slowly digesting it and am printing out the info. I have a question o learned one. I have Adobe 4.0 photoshop and do not have the pen tool for isolation .Checking out the pen tool on some one else computer i think it works similar to the magic lasso in my program. Are you familiar with adobe 4. I would like to beable to do the best isolation's i can. Thank you Peter
This article has been read 2323 times. 6 readers have found this article useful.
My take on Wedding Photography - Kenneth William Caleno
Two camera bodies that share the lenses
Two flashes (strobes) plus cables, etc.,
18mm-55mm zoom-for groups
50mm standard lens F1.8 or even better F1.4-for low-light situations
Not essential, but handy for candids and from back of church images- 70mm-300mm zoom lens
large capacity digital storage cards
At least triple batteries as you think you will need
Two white reflectors
Diffusion (soft-focus) filter
85c warming filter for grey days
Tripod for formal photos
Lens hoods to control flare
Planning the wedding shoot
You must have a timetable to work from, or you will fail miserably.
You must always remember:
The Bride is never on time
Cars are sometimes late arriving
Hi, an American colleague and I are preparing an all in one guide,covering raw processing,studio work,using studio strobes,all with images to explain, It'll be some time in the making, but I am sure we'll get there,Ken
Here's the secret to getting a perfectly exposed outdoor shot every time - (as long as your subject area is within the 5-stop dynamic range of the camera's metering system)
1. Know how your camera handles exposure-( I know that mine overexposes between 1/3 and 2/3 of a stop-depending on lighting conditions)
First, calibrate your camera's meter:
a) Set camera mode to “P”/P-shift“, or “A/AV” Use Matrix/evaluative metering-(Scene should contain all tones within dynamic range) b) Hold +/- button, (On Nikon’s, Near shutter button: Canon‘s is to the right of LCD screen) and turn command dial to + 1.0 - take a shot
Next ……………………………….................turn command dial to + 0.7 - take a shot Next………………………………......
Interact, make friends, share tips and techniques, have fun. Dreamstime wants your ideas and thoughts whether you are a photographer, designer or regular user. Create a blog to tell your story, promote favorite images and photographers, post tutorials or simply exchange opinions with your with fellow dreamstimers.
Don't forget words and pictures go great together so make sure you choose some Dreamstime favorite pics to brighten your article. For inspiration, check out the hottest or the most useful blogs on the left.
Create a blog to tell your story, promote favorite stock images and photographers